Freedom Challenge-pt X

Day 21: Anysberg – Montagu

Johnny, Estelle and I had breakfast together, Estelle seemed a lot more chirpy after a good night of sleep. Just for a change we set off in the dark and it was chilly. The day promised easy nav and a fairly easy 70km ride to Montagu including the long descent down Ouberg pass.

I’d been looking forward to this day in a nostalgic way. Six years earlier I’d cycled up Ouberg pass only two weeks into my big Africa trip. Cycling through Anysberg and beyond I found myself looking for landmarks from the last trip. Though I didn’t recognise much in the park, if was obvious that cycling on a 15kg mountain bike was a different ball game than last time when my bike weighed some 40kg.

We stopped for coffee at the park gate, the spot I’d stopped for a second breakfast of coffee and instant noodles in 2011. Then happy for the shade to stay cool, now happy to stand in the sun to warm up.

The road between the park and Ouberg pass hasn’t changed much either:

2011


2017

Though the road hasn’t changed much in the six years my life has. Only two weeks into the 2011 trip I wild camped near the top of Ouberg pass, as I passed that spot I found myself reflecting on that trip, this trip and all that has happened in between.

In 2011 I still had so much to see and experience, another nine countries and 11,000km in Africa, Winter trips where I would cycle and camp down to -40, Some Brompton trips through Europe, various bike packing trips to learn how to ride a mountain bike(I didn’t ride a MTB until 2014) and as many new jobs as girlfriends. During these years always searching for something, never able to settle, always running, never content, often missing Africa. Yet here I was, once again at Ouberg pass, only a couple of days from finishing the last thing on my bucket list, happy to close the open chapter called Africa, missing home for the first time in as long as I can remember and for the first time in as long as I can remember no new trips or plans in the pipe line. Shane homesick, ha, who’d of thought, and who’d of thought that I’d be happy to be homesick, finally I have somewhere that makes me want to go home to instead of run away, finally content enough with myself to stop searching.

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Johnny and I arrived in Montagu before lunch, it was tempting to push on for the four or so hours to MacGregor but we decided to stick to our new plan, in a week we’d be both be back home and life would continue in the unforgiving way that life does that, why rush, we had plenty of time to enjoy the last few days of our “Freedom challenge”a year from now the difference between finishing in 22 or 24 days would be irrelevant and for now an afternoon off was priceless. We also found Derrick lying in bed, he’d sadly had to quit due to an injury, a sad reminder that it isn’t over until its over. During the afternoon and evening several other riders arrived, many leaving again after a quick snack. Once again it was great to meet people I’d followed in previous years, Leon, Ingrid and others, and a pleasure to meet other riders who’s dots had been chasing my thoughts for weeks. Once again I regularly heard people say ” Next time I do this I’m going to do it like you”. I would raise my beer and say ” Its still not too late…”

Johnny and I made the most of the afternoon off for laundry, bike maintenance and stomach maintenance.

Day 22 : Montegu – MacGregor

We wished the other riders well who left early, we made a point to start in daylight because we finally could. Despite being so close to the finish the scenery was still stunning, we zigzagged through wine estates and hills, the weather was mild and life was good.

At around 10am we spotted a cafe that was opening “Johnny, small we pretend we’re on holiday instead of taking part in a race across South Africa and stop for coffee and cake?”

We once again arrived around noon and again spent the afternoon ale and food tasting in the village. Again hearing ” Next time I do this I’m going to do it like you” from other riders as they passed through or stayed the night.

Day 23 : MacGregor – Trouthaven

We started on time in the dark, the roads were a little too busy, it was obvious that we were getting close to the civilized world again. For the first time I was worried about getting killed, getting squashed by a truck one day before the finish would have been an inconvenient way to finish my ride. Luckily the route took to smaller roads soon after daylight and I was able to relax and enjoy the views again.

After the last two days with coffee breaks and restaurants doing the full 100km without services seemed a little daunting. Luckily I still had my flask with me  (definitely the best piece of gear I brought with me) so from time to time we confiscated a bus stop for coffee.

During one of our breaks Johnny notices that the Talbots were only a couple of kilometres behind us on the tracker, so we hung around a little for chat.

A few minutes later we set off together. They dashed off, leaving us in their dust, the difference in pace showing the difference between a 24 day finish and a 17(?) day finish.

Somewhere after the Brandvlei dam Johnny wanted to stop for some water at a vineyard shop. “Good plan, I really need the toilet”.  It was only another 30 minutes to Trouthaven so we bought some beers too. When I returned from the toilet I asked “Johnny, have you smooth talked the nice young lady into making us coffee yet?”

“Would you gents like some coffee?”

“Well thats a good idea. But, only if we can pay for it, otherwise its outside help and we could get in trouble” The coffee appeared, followed by a long discussion about race rules. I have no idea who paid for the coffee in the end, trail fairies?

Just before leaving the wine bottles on the wall got my attention (I’d been distracted by the beer and boobs I guess). “Wait a minute, this is a winery, do you do wine tasting too?”

Thank you Daschbosch lady for the warm welcome and tasty wine/coffee 🙂

As we approached Trouthaven the last group of cyclists raced past, I was now officially at the back of the field.

With worries of what the last and most dreaded day of Freedom Challenge would behold, we all sat down to dinner, beer and speculated over the map and Johnny’s dodgy sketch of his “Cunning plan”.

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Day 24: Trouthaven – Diemersfontein

The last early start, the last day riding in the cold, only one more push, one long hike and the 2017 Freedom Challenge would be done, how hard could it be? When you’ve cycled and hiked most of the way across South Africa, it would be easy to feel invincible. But, to underestimate Stettynskloof was not a rookie mistake I was planning on making.

We left an hour later than the other riders, they were eager to get finished, we were eager not to get lost walking around in circles in the dark. Leaving an hour before dawn got us to the top of the dam wall at sunrise. The dam wall was just as steep and tough as you might expect if you take a short cut straight up a dam wall…..

The next hour was fairly straight forward as a path had been cut through the bush for the first section.

Just before the Shackleton wreckage things got interesting. The path stopped, the bush got thicker and before long it was like swimming in a green mud bath. Too thick to walk, not thick enough to climb over, the only solution was to throw my bike a couple of meters in front of me then sort of swim/crawl through the bush then repeat. Twenty minutes later the first 200m bush crossing was done.

Though the view were stunning I had no eye for them, my tired legs and blistered feet had my full attention as well as thoughts of whether we’d make it out before dark. Each of the several riverbeds had a 200m stretch of suicide bush. I found myself wondering “what the fuck am I doing here!!”. The only thing keeping me going was the idea that this should be the last day on the trail if I kept pushing myself. That, and desperately not wanting to loose sight of Johnny in front of me as he claimed to know an easy way out. Had this been the first day of the trail, I doubt I would have continued.

“I’m going down that way” Johnny said. “But the track goes that way” I said. Johnny headed off down, I followed.

Johnny’s cunning plan meant we missed the worst of the bush but in return got a couple of very dodgy river crossings and scrambling over “scree” in return. Eventually he found the rabbit hole which was the remains of the original track through the bush. It was still thick but together we walked our bikes one at a time through the bush, this longest section of suicide bush (because suicide would be an easier way out) taking five minutes instead of an hour.

To celebrate making it through the rabbit hole we stopped for an early lunch thinking it was almost over. We then dropped down to the last dodgy river crossing through another short section of bush with bike throwing. The plan was to go straight up the mountain a 100m  or so on the other side to miss the worst of the bush near the river then contour around.

An hour of dodgy climbing, slipping, ankle twisting later I was almost out of the valley, I’d lost Johnny at the river as he decided against the climb after he saw how much I was struggling.

I was confused that I couldn’t see Johnny. Had he found an easier way and leapfrogged me? Had he twisted an ankle or fallen? I spent 30 minutes pacing back and forth along the top of the hill. Wondering how long I should wait or whether I should go back down and look for him.

Eventually I decided to head back down and look for him, about 200m back down I spotted him, walking 5 meters, resting then walking again, he looked knackered. I walked down to him and asked if he wanted me to carry his bike for the last section.

“Fuck you Shane.”

It had taken us about seven hours to do the last 14km. At the top we stopped to enjoy the view, hug and share the quarter cask Laphroaig he’d carried for the occasion. Johnny proudly and with slightly damp eyes (from the wind I guess) showed his grandfather’s compass which he’d carried as a good luck charm. The compass once used in the trenches of WW1, now proudly on display 100 years later in Stettynskloof.

Like many other sections on the Freedom challenge, you’d be forgiven for thinking the hard work is over after Stettynskloof. Sadly there’s still a couple of climbs still to go. Johnny had already given all he had to get out of the Kloof. The next couple of hours were really tough for him, he totally bonked. The last climb on the busy Du ToitsKloof pass far from fun and irritatingly busy with rush hour traffic. I was once again worried about getting squashed. Dying and hour from the finish would have been quite a downer. I was tempted to blast off as I still had some energy but we’d been through the last couple of days together and I didn’t want to abandon my partner in crime in the last hour. After much determination on his part, and much waiting on my part we finally arrived at Diemersfontein at sunset. We were the last to finish the 2017 Freedom Challenge.

“I’m carrying my bike across the finish line as this will be the last time I ever carry my bike”.

When Johann told me about the FC in 2011, it seemed like an impossible event to me, so far from my reality and ability. Now, six years later and only three years after buying a mountain bike I had finished it in 23 days 12 hours. It was an extra pleasure to receive my finishers blanket from Johann standing next to the fine gentleman that had been my riding partner for the last days.

Thats all folks !!